Tuesday, January 22, 2008

So many things to do....so little time...

I've done a lot of traveling, therefore I've done my share of packing suitcases, and pretty much had it down to a science. Going to Ireland or England? Take a raincoat and umbrella. Going to Germany or Switzerland? Be sure to have an extra pair of hiking shoes. Going to Mexico or Thailand? Remember to keep your mouth closed while you take a shower and don't forget the immodium. Going to Australia? Be prepared to ask for a translation even though they ostensibly speak "English".

However, packing for a trip to Antarctica is quite different than preparing for any other trip I've ever taken. I've never been anywhere before where, if I forgot some essential item, I wouldn't be able to make a quick dash to a store to get what I forgot. I've never been anywhere before where it will be so cold that I have to remember to take chemical handwarmers to keep my freshly charged camera batteries from losing power in only a few moments. I've never been anywhere before where we will be required to wash our footwear before leaving the ship and before getting back on--to avoid contaminating the various areas with non-indigenous seeds, spores, or bacteria. I've never been anywhere before where I won't be able to bring so much as a pebble back to add to my worldwide rock collection--unless I can remember to grab one up from South America on the return trip.

Antarctica has no permanent population and no "government" per se. While several nations have claimed "ownership" of various sections of the continent, none of the claims are recognized by the world in general. Therefore, Antarctica is the only place on earth where a number of nations of the world have managed to cobble together an agreement on how to manage and protect the continent. The Antarctic Treaty was created in December, 1959 in Washington , D.C., and as of 2001, 45 nations, including most of the "heavy hitters", have ratified it. It's a remarkably short document, containing only 14 fairly brief articles, the first of which is probably the most significant: "Antarctica shall be used for peaceful purposes only. There shall be prohibited, inter alia, any measure of a military nature, such as the establishment of military bases and fortifications, the carrying out of military maneuvers, as well as the testing of any type of weapons." Considering the treaty was developed during the height of the cold war, it is notable that both the United States and the then USSR ratified the treaty in 1960. (With the dissolution of the USSR, the Republic of Russia assumed the rights and obligations of being a party to the treaty.)

Additional articles in the Treaty provide for "freedom of scientific investigation" and require cooperation and sharing of all knowledge among the nations which glean scientific data from their research activities. (Wouldn't it be great if we could operate the rest of the world on the same principles?)

Anyway, inspection personnel are maintained by the treaty signatories to check that all the research stations and tourist companies are abiding by the rules. We have already been told--and doubtless will be told several times again--that we are not to remove so much as a pebble or a feather or piece of driftwood from the areas where we will be landing. We have also been told to be very careful that we leave nothing behind, not so much as a scrap of paper, let alone a cigarette butt or dead camera battery. There aren't even accomodations made for "privy calls" while on shore. Suggested plan: go before you land and then hold it or ask a Zodiac raft driver to take you back to the ship if you have to answer an urgent call of nature. Obviously the shore excusions will be of relatively short duration, partly because of that and partly because of the cold.

While it's currently "summertime" in Antarctica, all things are relative, and summer means temperatures can range from 5 to 40 degree F. A significant factor in dealing with the environment ashore is the wind. Antarctica is the windiest continent on earth. The infamous"katabatic winds", caused by denser, colder air rushing down off the polar plateau, can achieve velocities of up to 199 mph! That's greater than hurricane force wind and it's cold air! Talk about your wind chill factor! No wonder we've been told to bring water and windproof parkas, pants, hats, gloves, and scarves and plan to dress in multiple layers.

Much of the information in this post is coming from a little book called, "Antarctica", published by Lonely Planet. The book is chocked full of interesting facts, pictures, and general information of use to the traveler bound for the white continent. Most of the information has wheted my appetite even more to see and experience the area below 60 degrees S latitude. However, there are a few comments that give me pause. One in particular has to do with the unique hazards of life aboard ship in the Antarctic waters. Lurching through floating ice can result in sudden movements of the ship, resulting in falls, doors being slammed onto unwary fingers, and even the occasional man overboard. Here's an interesting quote: "If you fall overboard, you will die--simple as that." The 4 degree C water of the Southern Ocean doesn't allow for more than a few moments survival, and yes, there are accounts of tourists who have fallen overboard and been seen no more. I plan to heed the warnings to "always keep one hand for the ship" to hold on in case it rolls in the sometimes turbulent seas.

By now I expect some of you, dear readers, are shaking your heads and muttering, "This woman is undoubtedly out of her mind to want to make this trip." Perhaps so. But I'm willing to take the risks to take part in what I consider the experience of a lifetime.

More later on preparing for Antarctica.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

you're one brave soul vennie.

Beth said...

Vennie -
Please be careful! Have a great time!

Hugs and love - Beth

Laura said...

I do not think you are out of your mind at all. I would give anything to go with you...

hot tamale said...

Me too Vennie, but I know you will tell the story so well of your adventures, I will feel as if I was there too!
love you and please be careful and remember...dont touch the penguins wink wink
love you and miss you already
Becky